One of my pet peeves with the wine industry over the years has been the occasional practice of inventing a new term to describe an already defined word. This results in only further confusing already-bewildered American wine consumers who must regularly deal with labels in foreign languages and nonsensical descriptions of wines as being ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œethereal.ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥
Anyway, I was reminded of this recently when someone asked me to describe the difference between red wines Syrah and shiraz. Well, for those of you who donÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™t know, Syrah is the world-famous grape that has been grown and produced in the Rhone Valley of France for centuries.
Shiraz, on the other hand, is an invented word that some wine marketer decided to call the Syrah made in Australia and South Africa ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥” and now sometimes even in California.
You wonÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™t see the word Syrah mentioned on any Rhone label because the wine there is identified by the producer and the place (like Cote-Rotie or Cornas), but most red wine from the region will be comprised of that grape.
I mention this because if you donÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™t sip Syrah, or even the stuff labelled shiraz, youÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™re missing out on wines that, while different in name, place and in the way theyÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™re vinified, are both excellent and worthy of your exploration.
The best Rhone producers are E. Guigal, Paul Jaboulet Aine, M. Chapoutier, J. Vidal-Fleury and Delas Freres. These wines are more restrained, complex and less highly alcoholic than most of the Australian, South African and American versions of the Syrah called shiraz.
In the US, wine labeled as Syrah was not widely available until the 1980s, when the ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œMonty PythonÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ of California wine makers, Randall Graham (Bonny Doon Vineyards), was one of the first to introduce Syrah and other Rhone varietals to California. If youÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™ve never read one of GrahamÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™s pun-filled, semi-wine related, opera-inspired tomes, youÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™re missing a great opportunity to add knowledge and humorous wine education tidbits to your appreciation of the fruit of the vine. Check out his book: ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œBeen Doon So Long.ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ ItÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™s a riot!
If you would like to sample Syrah from California, some of my favorite labels are Qupe, Onx, Ascent, Cayuse, Babcock, Alexander Valley Vineyards and Beckman.
The Australians, particularly in the Southeastern Barossa region around Adelaide, make a fuller-bodied style of shiraz. My favorites from Down Under are Clarendon Hills; Torbreck Woodcutters Red, Penfolds Kalimna, Lindemans Bin 50, Elderton and dÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz.
Whether you call it Syrah or shiraz, go out and experience the tasteful versatility of these delicious wines.
Wine Spectator recognizes West Virginia restaurants
I remember a time ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥” just a couple of decades ago ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥” when perusing a wine list in a West Virginia restaurant took about 10 seconds. The choices usually included a ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œhouseÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ white, red and roseÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™ usually supplied by some mega-jug-wine producer in California.
If you wanted a varietal like pinot noir or chardonnay, the wine list might have a ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œBurgundyÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ red or a ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œChablisÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ white. If you wanted anything more upscale, youÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™d need to drive over to The Greenbrier.
But thankfully, times have changed, and our state boasts some excellent restaurants that feature a wide selection of domestic and international wines. To recognize restaurants that have the most exceptional wine lists, each year Wine Spectator Magazine singles out eateries for special awards.
Congratulations to four West Virginia restaurants that have been recognized by the Wine Spectator for having award worthy wine lists. The Final Cut Steakhouse at Hollywood Casino and Racetrack in Charles Town received a ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œBest of award of ExcellenceÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ while three other state restaurants rated an ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥œAward of Excellence,ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ including The Wonder Bar Steakhouse in Clarksburg, Bistro 112 in Shepherdstown and Sip Downtown Brassiere in Huntington.
And a special shout out to The Wine Down, CharlestonÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™s new wine bar at 114 Washington St. West in Elk City. Open most afternoons and early evenings, The Wine Down features a rotating selection of reds, whites, sparklers and roseÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥™s along with charcuterie plates and other wine friendly small tapas-like dishes to pair with an eclectic and always-changing list. Check it out.
John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book in the Augie Trilogy — “Augie’s Wine” — is now available. His first two books — “Augie’s War” and “Augie’s World” — are also available online and in bookstores around the state. You can find out more about his novels, and review all of his archived Vines & Vittles columns at .
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